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Sunday, August 26, 2007

Getai 2007

This is the Chinese Hungry Ghost Month again. It falls on the 7th Lunar Month. During this month, devotees of this belief offer prayers, food and entertainment to the hungry ghosts who are released this one month a year to our world.
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The entertainment for the ghosts used to be traditional Chinese opera. These come with thick gawdy face makeup, wayang costumes and erhu, drums and gongs. They are usually in Teochew, Hokkien and Cantonese (southern Chinese dialects). However, over the years, such wayangs got less popular and now staged concerts (getai) almost took over the entertainment circuit for the Hungry Ghost month.
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Apart from the ghosts, these getais are popular among the common people, the HDB heartlanders in Singapore and the working class.
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I managed to find one at the Serangoon Road area, near Kitchener Road. It is situated in a charming corner of the commune. Isn't these town houses lovely? The architecture embraces European colonial columns and architraves, wooden slated windows with green tinted glasses, Portuguese wall tiles and Chinese wall motifs.

This is the entrance to the getai site. The devotees have put up tents for the stage, the dinner and the auction.


These are their celestial saints and deities in heaven.

This are the items that they auction during the dinner.

It is usually a noisy affair. Especially when they compete with the music coming from the stage. :)

These are worker dormitories in the construction site next to the getai. These workers come mainly from China.

These front seats are for the hungry ghosts. There is a packet symbolic of their presence placed on each chair. You are not supposed to sit there. Those behind are human beings. They are construction workers from China.

They fill up the chairs before dusk. Most of them are Chinese from mainland China. It is good that they get to have such entertainment amid their hard life in the construction site. It reminds me of my CO Evening when I was in the army. During CO Evening, we likewise had entertainment from the Music and Drama Company.

I took a seat right behind these workers, where I took this pix.

Then, next to me, I noticed three seats with silk covers immaculately arranged, complete with Guinness Stout, cigarettes and cakes. These seats are for the ghosts in the high pecking order. I guess the ordinary ghosts are not supposed to sit here either.

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There is a devotee who will come around to light up the cigarettes for these 'seniors' every time their cigarettes burned out.

Notice that each chair is pasted with a yellow paper talisman. These talismans are prepared by mediums when they go on a trance.

Then at the left side, I notice a small crowd forming around a yellow bicycle. The crowd seemed amused with this old fella here. He has made himself to be the unofficial sound man at the getai. With his improvised bicycle, he managed to put a high microphone to connect to his little compact cassette tape recorder.


Look how earnest he was!

He must have a really old bike as it still has its bicycle registration plate. Bicycle registration was abolished in Singapore probably 30 years ago!


Now, the show must go on...

The sun has set and the stage is glittering and ready...

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The show started with the famous MC in Singapore getai and Karen Lim, the most popular female getai artiste in Singapore. May be even JB and Batam. :)

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Karen appeared in the recent Royston Tan's movie "881" which is musical based on getais.

She is a great entertainer with a wonderful voice... ok... and a great body! That helps! :)

She sang songs out from the movie "881". You can find those songs at the end of this posts.

.This gentleman is the most popular male singer in the getai circuit. He sings mainly Hokkien songs. Later he managed a Mandarin song for the mainland Chinese audience who are mostly from North China and would not understand Hokkien, which is a southern dialect.

. This lady is another singing veteran. She sings in Teochew - a funny song about the number of stars in the sky and what happens to her family when there were 1 star, 2 stars, 3 stars,...etc.

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When my mother sang that to me when I was a kid, I fell asleep before we reached 3 stars...

As we leave the getai, we noticed this contrast between the old and new. Traditional operas have almost exited the 7th month scene. Getais are the ones that draws the crowds, and may be the ghosts too. However, these are great draws amongst the common folks and the less educated in the Singapore. Commentaries and jokes uttered in getais are usually rough, bordering on profanity and mostly in Hokkien - the street language.

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Youngsters now are getting better educated. Most of them now no longer speak dialects and are probably more comfortable with American Idol and Youtube. Perhaps getai will one day have to go through its own transformation. Already the better funded ones have background dancers and acrobatics as the singer literally flies in from the stage roof. The one here already uses a lot more light than those I saw when I was a kid. There is also use of lasers and disco flickers.

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In the near future, they may have to continue to innovate and use newer entertainment technologies. May be there will be fireworks, pyrotechnics, more electronic music, more techno beats, holographic displays, large LCD screens for those in the far end from the stage, or even simulcasts on Youtube. I wonder if this was how New York Broadway and London Westend entertainment started.

I enjoyed the evening very much. First it was such a nostalgia listening to all those old Hokkien songs complete with cha-cha beats and gaudy kitch. It reminded me of childhood, when we mingled under the stage trying to poke the singers feet through the gaps between the floor boards. And the little 'tikam tikam' (lottery) stalls underneath the stage.

But most of all, I love it because it is so truly local. While the jokes and songs can be vulgar, they are all unpretentious and well meaning just to have a good night's entertainment with the ghosts.

If you are in Singapore and haven't visited a getai, you ought to do so now. It is true blue Singaporean entertainment. I have ever been to one where I was even served food and beer. And it is all FREE!!! Elsewhere in the world, there would have been a riot! :) In England, you would see many drunk!!!

For the highly educated high brows, perhaps this would be a time for a reality check at the getais and learn to love people as they are. Besides, if you can truly understand these folks, you can be sure to win the election!


As we walk out from the getai premises, we slowly transit to Little India. Isn't it amazing? One minute true blue (or rather, gawdy red) Chinese kitch getai, a few minutes down the road, it feels like being in India with the Sunday Indian crowd.

At Little India, we went for a delicious dosai supper. Yum!

It was a splendid evening!





This is from the movie "881". I think Royston Tan has done an amazing job to lift the standard of getai and make them popular among the young. Well done!

For getai schedules in Singapore in 2007, click here



Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Singapore's 42th Birthday

Measured by the number of national flags on display during National Day, Singaporeans are most likely to be the most patriotic citizens in the world. It probably has the most displayed flags per population or square kilometre. Singapore's National Day, which marks their independence and separation from the Federation of Malaysia on 9th August 1965.
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Have you ever noticed how similar the Singapore flag is to the Indonesian and the Malaysian flags?



Isn't this very symbolic of pre-independence Singapore or even the old Temasek days of coming out from the 14th century Indonesian sultanates of Sri Vijaya and the Majapahit Empires; and then the Federation of Malaysia? :)
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Such notions are probably not popular amongst the fiercely patriotic people in this successful nation state. Much like the other notion that some (older) people living on the island were once born British, then became Malaysians before becoming Singapore citizens! :)
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For the official symbolic meaning of the Singapore flag, click here

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Park Connectors in Singapore 2

After the great fun we had in our last cycling trip from Pasir Ris to Zouk, at Kim Seng Road, we now decided to make another trip on the 29th July 2007, across the north side of the island of Singapore. Actually, I won't call this trip a "Park Connector" route, as parks on the north side are not well connected yet by cycling trails. We started at 6.30am in the morning. The idea is to cut across the nature reserve of Singapore and then head northwards towards Woodlands, Kranji and then Lim Chu Kang. See map later.
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As in the last trip, we took it at a very leisurely pace, stopping by for our favourite Roti Prata, Teh Halia (ginger tea) and photo shots.
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However, we had to hurry to the first destination at MacRitchie Reservoir. We had to make it by 8.00am for the Sunday Bucky Group book reading and discussions.
Just before cutting across the Tampines Expressway, we saw the Tzu Chi Foundation Building, a charity organisation that had done so much for the poor around the world. It was started by Dharma Master Chen Yen. For details of the Singapore branch, click here.

Across the Expressway is Old Tampines Road, the temple trail of Singapore.
We still have mediums that go on a trance to get connected with higher beings and devotees coming in to ask for advice in these temples.


Two space ships landing...
MacRitchie Reservoir - our morning bliss - we made it on time and reach there at 8am. We covered 20km in about 90mins, including stopping for some pixs.

Instead of starting with the book reading, they started with the durains first!!! :)


For those of you who doesn't know what a durain looks like, they are starchy sweet fleshy seeds in a green spikey husk. Either you love it or hate it. If you are from South East Asia, you are most likely to absolutely love it!

MacRithchie Reservoir is very scenic. Here one of the Bucky members sketched this whilst we read Bucky's chapters. For more pix of the Reservoir, click here.
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After the Bucky Group session, we headed for the Tree Top walk at the northern side of the reservoir banks. Then we realised we that bicycles are not allowed in the nature trails. This would mean that we would not be able to do a short cut across the forest and would have to take the road later.
On the way to the Tree Top Walk, it stormed and we had to take sneak in a nearby posh golf club to take refuge till the rain stop. It is a beautiful club.


Here is the Tree Top Walk, which is a suspended bridge over a valley.

These two trees rise way above the rest. The giants in the forest.
This are dense tropical forest not covered by the last Ice Age! It is amazing for a small island like Singapore to have set aside a relatively large area as nature reserves.



End of the Walk, we headed down the slopes, to get back to our bicycles and head further north to Lower Pierce Reservoir. At the fringes of Lower Pierce, the rain had stop and it was sunny again!
Then some families came out for their outings by the Reservoir grounds! :)
Can you pick up the alpha male in the family?

We spotted this funny papaya tree opposite where we have lunch! :)

Along the board walk of Lower Pierce Reservoir.

A little monitor lizard.

After we left Lower Pierce, we headed further north along the Old Upper Thomson Road, a lovely winding country road. It used to be a Grand Prix circuit back in the 60s and 70s.

Along Mandai Road, there were loud aggressive screams from a family of monkeys on the trees against a gentle stray dog merely looking up at them with curiosity.

As I passed by the dog, it connects with me instantly and followed me.



This part of an old army camp.

At Kranji Reservoir.
By now, you probably realised that there are so many reservoirs in tiny Singapore.
There is lots of rain here, but not enough to impound them all.
That's why water has to be supplied from Malaysia.
I call her "Jojo". Such a lovely dog. She has jogged about 10km alongside us by now.

Outside the reservoir bund, I saw this barbed wire fencing on the shore facing Malaysia.
Wonder why... Is it to keep illegal immigrants out?

If it is, then there is this side that is fully exposed, just next to the barbed wires.

The white building on the right is the Istana (palace) of the Sultan of Johor.

The Straits of Johor is only 1.5 km wide.

As we went further to Lim Chu Kang, Jojo followed.

Outside Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserves. Lots of migratory birds stop here for rest. It was closed by the time we reach there at 6pm.

This is a Koi fish farm.

This is what a Singapore country road looks like. Fish and vegetable farms on both sides.

It is now about 7pm and we are hungry looking for a place to eat.
We stumbled on this golf club called Kranji Sanctuary. I am wondering how it can be a sanctuary when the original natural habitat had to be cleared to build this golf course?
Anyway, there wasn't dinner by then. In fact, the whole place was closing for the day. They also did not have anywhere for us to stay for the night. We had to either head southwards to Jurong, which is highly industrialised or backtrack. We decided on the latter.

Flat out!
Jojo taking a rest after we fed him food and water.
We backtracked and stopped by a hawker centre which had only foreign workers from China and the Indian sub-continent.
They are mostly hired as contruction workers and farm hands.
This is the mural of the room where I slept. I manage to contact a friend in Woodlands, who is kind enough to put me up for the night. It was about 11pm by the time I reach my friend's place. It was a much needed rest! Even laying flat, I felt my legs cycling. Once eyes closed, I could still see the winding country roads. Finally, I must have slept around midnight.
We had to leave Jojo outside the apartment though. I thought it would be stretching my friend's hospitality a bit too far if I bring the dog in. Besides, they have a 17 month baby and I wouldn't want her disturbed.
When we woke up, Jojo was gone. Such a pity. I would have kept her as a pet. Such a lovely dog! She had followed us for at least 20kms, running diligently by our bicycles without straying. Oh Jojo, where are you?
As we head further east from Woodlands, we passed by a pavement parked full of motorbikes. This is unusual as it is normally forbidden in Singapore and fines are meted frequently to offenders. On closer look, these bikes all come from Malaysia. They are Malaysians from the other side of the Straits who cross over to Singapore everyday to work at the shipyard. Perhaps that is why they are 'exempted' from the fines! :)
This is a typical black-and-white colonial bungalow that dots over the northern shore of Singapore. More of them as we headed towards Seletar Air base.
Sembawang Park.

There are many names like these that are so British. Some others are: "Hyde Park Road", "Picaddilly Circus" and "Trafalgar Road".

Further east, passed Ponggol, we finally got back to Old Tampines Road.
Here, it is like time has stood still.
This is the old mouldy coffee shop that's still standing and the waiter walks around barefooted.
. ... and kampung chickens and roosters still roam the turf.
Just 20 years ago, the whole Tampines/Pasir Ris area was like this - just slow and sleepy kampungs of fish and chicken farms.
Since we hurried past this place yesterday, we decided to visit one of the temples. This one is a Taoist temple.
There is a street wayang in the evening. Temples do that during the 7th Lunar month.
'Space-ships' in the day time.


Our route is marked in red, from east to north-west, then back.
Before we retired home, we rewarded ourselves with a ice-cold Chendol. Yum!



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